Discovering the Valpantena
LAND OF ANCIENT MEMORIES
You have entered the land of the ancient Cimbrian community, originally from Bavaria, who settled in this area on the 13th century. Many local place names derive from the old Germanic language they brought with them. The route starts in Grezzana and reaches San Mauro di Saline, passing through Cerro Veronese (a total of 40 km you can do in a one day's drive).
Grezzana (10,856 inhabitants) is located approximately 7 km north of Verona. It's one of the main centres of the Valpantena foothills. Other neighbourhoods of this municipality are Poiano, Quinto, Stallavena and Marzana. The Village is part of the Mountain Community of Lessinia and belongs to the Lessinia Regional Natural Park.
The territory of Grezzana, just like the rest of Lessinia, has been inhabited by man since the Lower Paleolithic (at least 200,000 years ago).
In Stallavena, at the foot of a rocky cliff wall of white limestone, is the so-called Riparo Tagliente, a prehistoric archaeological site discovered in 1958 by Francesco Tagliente, a settlement of the Middle and Upper Palaeolithic (60,000 to 10,000 years ago).
Not far away, on the opposite side of the valley, you can see the Torre (tower) di Falasco, most likely a medieval structure linked to a legend of bandits, abduction and abuse. (Private property).
In the heart of Grezzana is the ancient church, Pieve di Santa Maria e Elisabetta, documented already in 1145, which houses masterworks ranging between the 17th and 18th century by Felice Brusasorzi, Santa Creara, Prospero Schiavi and Michelangelo Spada. Next to the church is the bell tower (1213), which still maintains its original Romanesque appearance.
Proceeding up the valley, just where the foothills begin and the Valpantena valley narrows, we find another ecclesiastical gem, San Micheletto in Tavigliana, San Micheletto was a meeting place for shepherds during the transhumance period, before climbing to the mountains and on their return. In 1630, during the terrible Balck Death, it was used as a hospital for those affected by the disease.
Another stop-over, a must for art lovers, is villa Allegri Arvedi, on the slope of a hill. Built in the 13th century, the villa acquired its present form around the middle of the 17th century thanks to the Veronese architect Giovanni Battista Bianchi (1631-1687). It was commissioned by the Allegri family, who in 1824 sold the property to the Arvedi family. The singular frescoes inside the villa were painted by the famous French painter Louis Dorigny, Paolo Farinati and Sante Prunati. The villa is privately owned and used as a historical setting for special events.
Nearby is the Mulino dei Bellori, a 16th century water mill turned into a museum. Fallen into disrepair, it was restored thanks to a contribution of the Town of Grezzana in 1981 and is now working and used for educational and museological purposes.
Follow the road until you reach Cerro Veronese (2504 inhabitants), 17 km from Verona. The current name (Cerro, Quercus cerris) is related to the majestic, secular Austrian oak, next to the parish church. Nearby you can visit the octagonal Cappella del Redentore (Chapel of the Saviour) on the Monte Croce, where the view of the Lessini Mountains is spectacular; the Giasàra (local term to indicate the ice house for preserving food) dei Carcereri with the adjoining Ergology Museum, established in 1990, which houses illustrations and descrptions of the now abandoned activities concerning the production and the sale of ice.
After Cerro continue left towards Bosco Chiesanuova and leave the main provincial road almost immediately, following the signs to Roverè. Look for the indications to a cave, Grotta di Roverè Mille or Grotta di Monte Capriolo. The cave is also called Coale del Mondo (after its owner, Edmondo) and is located in the Vajo (gorge) della Carcareta, from the term calcara (lime kiln) once present in this area. The Grotta, of relevant geological importance, is an ancient karst cave in the limestone levels of Rosso Ammonitico. Its wealth of stalactites and stalagmites, flowstones and other fantastic shapes are amazing, formed by the deposition of limestone and other minerals over many millennia.
Last stop on the route is San Mauro di Saline (560 inhabitants). It owes the first part of its name to the twenty-eighth bishop of Verona, elected in 612, who apparently retired to live as a hermit in these places. The second part of the name derives from the dialect assaline the flintlocks of old rifles, obtained from flint (chert), a widespread resource in this area. Not far from the town, a visit to the Church of San Mauro or San Moro, actually dedicated to Saint Leonard of Limoges, will reward you with a scenic view over the surrounding lush pine forest.